The Hill tribes in northern Thailand
One
of the main tourist attractions of the north,
the hill tribes of Northern Thailand have preserved
their way of life with little change over thousands
of years,
Originating in different parts of
South East Asia and resisting persecution by
other cultures, they have migrated into Thailand
in a quest for freedom and security.
Although the hill tribes can be regarded as
"primitive", in that they pre-industrial,
pre-literate societies, hill tribe communities
are not group of simple people living simple
lives.
Their customs, laws and beliefs are complex
and very sophisticated, designed to harmonize
relationships between individuals and to conserve
their environment.
It is only in recent years,
with the effects of too rapid population growth
and competition for land, that their ancient
way of life has proved to be insufficient to
cope with the stresses resulting from external
forces.
In
Northern Thailand there are several hill tribes
living within a small geographical area.
Each
tribe has its own language, customs, religious
and social organization.
All the tribes are
welcoming and hospitable to visitors, providing
them with a unique opportunity to see and experience
ways of life which have been forgotten in the
west.
THE DIFFERENT HILL TRIBES
THE
KAREN
Population: approx 300,000 Origin: Myanmar |
|
The
Karen, (called Kaliang or Yang in Thai) are
found throughout the west of the region. Their
population is about 300,000 in Thailand, with
over four million in Burma. They are concentrated
mainly in Mae Hong Son province, and western
areas of Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and Phayao.
There are four sub groups. Two are the most
secretive. All their villages are between Mae
Sariang and Hod. Other groups include the Sgaw
(the most numerous) and Dam (black). Originally
Animist, over 30% of the Karen in Thailand have
been converted to Christianity by western missionaries.
The
Karen costume for women is very attractive and
distinctive. Unmarried girls wear loose white
Vee necked blouses, decorated with jobs tear
seeds at the seams. Married women wear blouses
and skirts in bold colors, predominantly red
or blue, Men wear blue baggy trousers with red
or blue shirts, a simplified version of the
women's blouses. Black Karen men wear black
shirts with a red cummerbund or head scarf.
Karen
houses are not usually large, Adult children
must leave the home when married - there is
no extended family. Houses are on stilts, made
of bamboo or teak. Central steps lead to a porch,
with a store room or kitchen to one side, a
living area and bedroom on the other. Beneath
the house is a working area, often with a foot
operated rice pounder.
The
Karen have strict laws against immorality. They
are matrilineal societies, so that two married
women cannot live in the same house. In some
villages, the punishment for adultery is death.
The village chief has great power over his community,
and is regarded as the spiritual as well as
the administrative leader.
THE
HMONG
population: approx 124,000 Origin: Yunnan |
|
Called
by the Tai Meo (a derogatory term since it means
barbarian), the Hmong are found widely in Northern
Thailand. There are two sub-groups, White and
Blue. Around and to the west of Chiang Mai,
most of the villages are Blue Hmong, in the
east only White Hmong villages can be found.
Their population in Thailand is about 70,000.
They originate in western China, possibly Mongolia.
Blue
Hmong women wear beautiful pleated skirts with
parallel horizontal bands of red, blue and white,
intricately embroidered. Jackets are of black
satin, with wide orange and yellow embroidered
cuffs and lapels. The hair is tied in a large
bun. Men wear baggy black pants and jackets
embroidered in a similar way to the women's,
closing over the chest with a button at the
left shoulder. White Hmong women wear black
baggy trousers with a long wide blue cummerbund
with a central pink area which hangs almost
to the ground. Their jackets are simple, with
blue cuffs. A brimless blue cap is worn by some
groups. Hmong villages are usually at high altitudes,
below the crest of a protecting hill. Houses
have a dirt floor and a roof which extends almost
to the ground. They live in extended families,
with two or more bedrooms. There is a large
guest platform. The headman has little power,
since the Hmong are fiercely independent people
who take orders from no one. Before marriage,
promiscuity amongst the young is normal. Marriage
is followed by a trial period before the bride
price is paid. Hmong men are expected to do
most of the work within the family. Men do the
heaviest work, but in practice this means they
do little, and expect to be supported by their
wives. The Hmong grow much opium, and addiction
rates in some villages are high, mainly among
the males.
Hmong
clothing is much in demand in Thailand, and
the Hmong have proved in the last few years
to be good business people. Hmong women will
be seen at markets throughout Thailand selling
their handicrafts. Although, like the other
tribes, generally poor, some families have become
quite wealthy.
Some build the more expensive and comfortable
Thai style houses, but in general the Hmong
have retained their traditional way of life.
There
have been few converts to Christianity or Buddhism
amongst the Hmong. They are strict animists,
whose shamans use dramatic methods to contact
the spirits. Every house has an altar of a piece
of paper covered in cock's feathers affied with
chicken blood.
THE
AKHA
Population: approx 50,000 Origin: Tibet / Myanmar |
|
The
poorest of the hill tribes, well known to tourists
for their extraordinary costumes and exotic
appearance. The Akha originate from Tibet, and
have only recently entered Thailand, the first
immigrants arriving in 1911. They are less open
to change that other hill tribes, clinging to
their old customs stubbornly.
The
women's costume consists of broad horizontal
striped leggings, a short black skirt with a
white beaded sporran, a loose fitting black
jacket with heavily embroidered cuffs and lapels.
The headgear, which is never removed, is a conical
wedge of white beads interspersed with silver
coins and topped with plumes of red taffeta.
The man's costume of plain black pants and a
lightly embroidered loose jacket is much less
impressive. The different subgroups of Akha
have slightly different costumes and headgear.
The
Akha live at high altitudes, in a position offering
good views over the surrounding country. Their
houses are on low stilts, with a large porch
leading into a square living area with a stove,
usually at the back. The roof is steeply pitched.
They are deeply superstitious, their religion
prescribing exactly how each action should be
performed. Any deviation from the correct is
believed to lead to disaster. All birth abnormalities,
even twins, leads to the killing of the new
born by the elders of the tribes.
Every
Akha village is entered through ceremonial gates,
decorated with carving of "human"
life, to indicate to the spirit world that beyond
here only humans can pass. Outside the gates
are wooden sculptures of copulating couples,
and the gates may be decorated with a wide variety
of "human" artifacts - weapons, tools,
and nowadays cars and air-planes. To touch these
carvings, or to show any lack of respect, is
punishable by fines or sacrifices. The gates
are replaced every year, so every village has
a series of gates, the older ones in a state
of decomposition and disrepair.
Peculiar
to the Akha, there is a giant swing in each
village. Every year, in August, there is a "swinging
festival", in which the headman, followed
by the rest of the village, take turns is using
the swing. The reasons for this practice are
unknown.
Many Akha villages still grow opium, generally
not of high quality. Opium addiction, especially
amongst the older men, is a serious problem.
THE
LISU
Population: approx 28,000 Origin: Tibet / Yunnan |
|
The
Lisu are a fiercely independent people, who
are in general adjusting well to the changes
taking place in their society. They originate
in Eastern Tibet, and the first settlers arrived
in Thailand at the beginning of this century.
They are only found in the west-particularly
between Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son, but also
in western Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai and Phayao
provinces.
The
women wear brightly colored costumes, consisting
of a blue or green parti-colored knee length
tunic, split up the sides to the waist, with
a wide black belt and blue or green pants. Long
hair is tied at the back. Sleeves shoulders
and cuffs are heavily embroidered with narrow,
horizontal bands of blue, red and yellow. At
New Year festival, in mid January, dazzling
displays of wealth are worn, including waistcoats
and belts of intricately fashioned silver and
hats with multi-colored pom-poms and streamers.
Men wear green, pink or yellow baggy pants and
a blue jacket opening vertically.
The
Lisu live at moderate to high altitudes. Their
house are built on the ground, with dirt floors
and bamboo walls around a central ridge. They
live as extended families, the number of bedrooms
depending on the family size. Unmarried girls
have a private bedroom after puberty. Every
home has an altar at the back of the communal
living area with a shelf holding vessels and
incense sticks honoring their ancestor.
Although
promiscuous, courtship and marriage are highly
stylized, involving a high "bride price".
There are twelve clans of Lisu, marriage should
be between members of different clans. The Lisu
believe strongly in the spirit world, and their
shamans are used to divine the causes and cures
of all problems and sickness.
Many
Lisu villages are involved in the opium trade,
and are reputed to grow the best opium. Addition
rates are declining, and the Lisu are responding
well to alternative cash crop production, but
the link between wealth and opium is still strong.
A Lisu headman has little power over his community,
the clan system generally over-riding his authority.
THE
LAHU
Population: approx 73,000 Origin: Yunnan, Myanmar |
|
The
Lahu tribes originated in south west China,
and have migrated into Thailand from Northern
Burma. Most of their settlements are concentrated
close to the Burmese border, in Chiang Rai,
northern Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son province.
The Lahu language has become a "lingua
franca", spoken throughout the other hill
tribes, since, amongst the Lahu, hiring out
labour to other hill tribes has become common.
There are four tribes within the Lahu - Black,
Yellow, Red and She-leh. The Black Lahu are
the most reserved, but wear the most distinctive
costumes women wear a black cloak with diagonal
cream stripes. The top of the sleeve is decorated
in bold colors of red and yellow, at the whim
of the seamstress. Red Lahu women wear black
trousers with white edging and vivid sleeves
of broad red and blue stripes. Amongst the other
Lahu tribes, traditional costume has been supplanted
by the Thai shirt and sarong. Lahu men wear
a plain black shirt and baggy black trousers.
Lahu
villages are at high altitude. The Red Lahu
are the only tribe to build a central Animist
temple, surrounded by banners and streamers
of white and yellow flags. Houses are built
on high stilts with walls of bamboo or wooden
planks, thatched with grass. A ladder leads
to an open central living area, with a store
room to one side and living quarters to the
other. There is one large bedroom, partitioned
off as necessary according to family size. The
main room has a central fireplace.
A high proportion (about one third) of Lahu
have been converted to Christianity, and many
have abandoned their traditional way of life
as a result. Animist Lahu believe in one spirit
with overall control all the others, and they
are rather predatory in search of a marriage
partner, but divorce and adultery are common.
The
Yao consider themselves rather aristocratic.
They originate in southern China, and at one
time had considerable power within the Chinese
empire, to the extent that at one time a Yao
princess was married to an emperor of China.
They are the only hill tribe to have a written
language, and a written religion base on medieval
Chinese Taoism, although in recent years there
have been many converts to Christianity and
Buddhism.
Their
villages are widely scattered throughout the
north east, with concentrations around Nan,
Phayao and Chiang Rai. They are a very peaceable
and friendly people, who pride themselves on
cleanliness and honor. The costume of the women
is very distinctive, with a long black jacket
with lapels of bright scarlet wool. Heavily
embroidered loose trousers in intricate designs
are worn, and a similarly embroidered black
turban. The teeth are commonly capped with gold.
The skull caps of babies are very beautiful,
richly embroidered with red or pink pom-poms.
On special occasions, women and children wear
silver neck rings, with silver chains extending
down the back decorated with silver ornaments.
Men wear a loose jacket which buttons diagonally
across the front, with embroidered pockets and
edgings.
Yao
villages are at high altitude, built usually
of wooden planks on a dirt road. There is a
guest platform of bamboo in the communal living
area, and two or more bedrooms. Girls of marriageable
age have a private bedroom in which they can
entertain suitors.
Some
Yao grow opium, although in general the incidence
is declining. The Yao are integrating well into
Thai life. Their exquisite embroidery is a very
saleable commodity, and their willingness to
adopt new crops gives hope for their future
within Thailand.
The
history of the Lawa people is long and poorly
understood. It is certain that they have inhabited
Thailand here 800 years ago. They believe that
they migrated from Cambodia, but some archaeologists
think their origins lie in Micronesia, perhaps
2,000 years ago.
With
such a long history of cohabiting with the Thais
(the legendary king Mengrai who unified Northern
Thailand was probably half Lawa), there has
been large scale integration, so that most Lawa
villages are indistinguishable from Thai settlements.
However, in an area of about 500 square kilometres
between Hot, Mae Sariang and Mae Hong Son, they
still live a largely traditional life, although
even here the majority have adopted Buddhism
and Thai style house. Unmarried Lawa girls wear
loose white blouses edged with pink. Around
the neck distinctive strings of orange and yellow
beads are worn. The tight skirt is in parallel
bands of blue, black, yellow and pink. On marriage,
these brightly coloured clothes are replaced
with a long fawn dress, but the strings of beads
are still worn. The hair is tied in a turban,
and it is usual for women to smoke tobacco from
a wooden pipe. Most Lawa speak Thai, but the
Lawa language, related to that of the Wa Tribe
of Burma, is still spoken in many villages.
The
most obvious and remarkable characteristics
of the hill tribes are their colorful, exquisitely
crafted costumes and the beauty of their adornments.
Their skills can also be seen in their tools,
basketry, weapons and musical instruments.
Each
tribe has a unique range of styles and colors
particular to it. Great time, pride and imagination
are exercised in the production of clothes and
jewellery. They are an expression of status,
pride and art. Most women still wear traditional
costume at all times, but many men and children
are adopting western shorts, jeans and T-shirts
for everyday wear.
Most
articles are produced within each family. Women
spin cloth and make their clothes, whilst men
make tools and weapons. Specialist blacksmiths
and silversmiths have high status within the
community, and may attract business from other
villages many kilometers away.
Jewelry is commonly made from silver, most melted
down from Indian and Burmese silver coins. Brass,
copper and aluminum are also used. The jewelry
amassed by a family are the outward display
of their wealth, worn by the women at the New
Year festival.
Clothing
and handicrafts were not until the last ten
years regarded as marketable products. With
encouragement from the Thai government and the
Kings Royal Project, co-operatives have been
set up to manufacture and market their traditional
goods, which are now big business in the markets
of Thailand, and can be purchased at countless
outlets throughout the world.
The
hill tribes are predominantly Animists, although
amongst the Karen, Yao and Akha there are Christian
and Buddhist minorities. Animists believe that
conscious spirits with powers over humans exist
throughout their surroundings.
The
hill tribes believe in these spirits most profoundly
- they are as real as the physical, visible
world. There are spirits in such things as rocks,
trees and rivers, which have power to bring
great good or harm. Ancestor spirits are cared
for by the family or village. For this reason,
every village will have a shaman, who can communicate
with the spirits and ensure the correct actions
at all times.
Birth
is the most dangerous time for all hill tribes
people. Amongst women, complications in childbirth
are the commonest cause of death, and infant
mortality is very high. The average number of
births per couple is six, partly to offset infant
mortality. Children are insurance for their
parents against sickness and death, so it is
vital to have enough to ensure that some survive
to adulthood.
Death
rates have been falling over the last thirty
years, with improvements in health care and
education, so that the natural growth rate of
hill tribe populations, even excluding immigration,
is very rapid. Because of the dangers, pregnancy
and childbirth are surrounded by taboo and ritual.
The women give birth, usually assisted by a
female relative or specialized local midwife.
The baby is not considered a human being for
several days after its birth - the several souls
within the body take this time to enter the
new-born. The mother's behavior before and during
childbirth is carefully watched. To die giving
birth is a "bad death", leading to
a high risk of the dead mothers spirit returning
to haunt the village.
Courtship
varies form tribe to tribe. Most are promiscuous
before marriage, except the Karen. Once a girl
has become pregnant, it becomes necessary for
her to find a husband. There is a high degree
of etiquette in the finding of a mate. Lineages
must be consulted and good omens looked for
before permission can be given. Monogamy is
usual, although amongst the Hmong a second wife
is acceptable. The marriage ceremony is always
a great celebration, very expensive for the
bride or grooms family. It is usual for the
bride and groom to come from different village,
so the celebration of one marriage frequently
spawns others!.
Hill
tribe people value health above all other attributes,
as do we all, but the hold of the hill tribe
person on his health is rather more tenuous
than ours. Life expectancy is low, due to poor
sanitation, polluted water, lack of, or ignorance
of medical facilities, drug addiction and endemic
disease. Health is never taken for granted,
but must be worked at.
Sickness
is regarded as the will of the spirit world,
caused by some sin or insult to the gods. Death
is a transition between this world and a parallel
spirit world, which is opposite to ours. The
death ceremony is essential to prevent the soul
of the departed returning to take more souls
to the underworld, and various options. First,
a shaman must be consulted to discover what
action has insulted which spirit. The shaman
will recommend and carry out the correct sacrifice.
These actions will be followed by the use of
local herbs - the commonest is opium, very effective
as an analgesic and anti-diarrhea drug, but
there are many others, whose efficiency has
been little researched. Finally, western medicine
will be tried, but unfortunately, since this
is often a last resort it is frequently too
late to effect a cure.
The
hill tribes have a predominantly subsistence
economy. Money is unnecessary, since everything
needed is produced within the village. In recent
years, this economy had begun to change, firstly
with the cash crop opium, now being replaced
with money from the sales of clothes, handicrafts
and new cash crops such as coffee, lettuce,
strawberries and other temperate fruits and
vegetables.
The
traditional agricultural base of the hill tribes
is slash and burn farming. In February or March,
an area of jungle is burned. The ashes from
the trees provide fertilizer for the crop-rice,
corn, chillies or other vegetables. Commonly
two crops will be grown together, for example
rice with corn. Crop rotation may be used, but
after two or three seasons the cleared area
must be abandoned for several years to recover
its fertility. This system is sustainable with
a low population density which allows the jungle
enough time to regain nutrients before it is
used again, but with the increase in population
the pressure is too great, fields are returned
to prematurely, soils are being exhausted and
the decreasing forest cover is leading to soil
erosion and perhaps permanent climatic change.
